I DO LIKE TO BE BESIDE THE SEASIDE

DEAL IS AN IDEAL SEASIDE TOWN. EVEN IF THE WEATHER'S BRUTAL

On a clear day you can see forever… Deal pier, looking towards France.

Much as I love London, sometimes it’s nice to take a break from the Smoke and let fresh sea air invade the lungs. As my pal Mike Hall has recently been forced to sell-up in London - yes, what Tammy Wynette sang of (“D.I.V” etc) - and shifted to Deal, Kent, I decided it was an ideal time to escape the festive gigs, parties etc.

Deal is two hours train journey from London Bridge. I love trains and always find the views of London’s outer suburbs as they blend into Kent fascinating. Arriving in Deal what always strikes me is the compact, historic town centre with its small houses and buildings jammed together on narrow lanes. A thousand years ago Deal was part of the Cinque Ports - the five Kent ports where much trade with France (just across the channel and visible on a clear day) was conducted from. This ensured Deal was a hub for smugglers and even today, with its narrow alleys and dilapidated buildings, suggests a place where illicit activities could take place.

England’s glory….

I first came across Deal when cycling the Kent coast some years ago. I was immediately smitten by its brutalist pier - most British piers are Victorian in both origin and decor - and that there were lots of ancient pubs (cycling makes one thirsty). Like so many seaside towns, Deal possessed an air of dilapidation (cheap holidays in the Spanish sun decimated the British seaside tourist trade - Blackpool, once the ultimate holiday destination for working people in north west England, now is notorious for being the location where its residents live the shortest lives of any UK city).

The causes of such early mortality - poverty, drug/alcohol abuse, obesity and smoking related diseases - are also evident in seaside towns closer to London (Hastings and Margate both uncomfortably balance new money with marginalised communities). Deal is too small (30,000 resident pop’) to have any visible problems; actually, until recently the town has been, like other Kent seaside communities, home to an ageing population: Bexhill, which is further west, is so somnolent that almost all its shops close at 4pm.

The arrival of those seeking refuge from London’s inflated rents/property prices - the DFLs (Down From Londoners) - has been gathering pace over the past decade in many seaside towns (not Brighton: already as expensive to live in as London). Especially amongst London couples with young children who want more space and to avoid the gangs and other social problems plaguing many inner-city neighbourhoods: prior to Mike’s arrival, I’ve known two couples who have fled South East London with their children to Deal. And they’re happy they did so, ‘cos Deal’s lovely.

As Deal is repopulated with younger residents the town has gotten a new lease of life: there’s an open air market selling all kinds of fresh produce, a variety of cafes and restaurants and chic shops. Some locals might feel resentment at the opening of shops selling expensive textiles, furnishings and such but Deal doesn’t feel - at least so far - as divided as Margate (where artisan bakeries and art galleries rub up against pound and charity shops). Deal’s also home to a really good record shop.

Smugglers Records - yes, the locals love the fact that Deal was once where outlaws gathered - sells new and used LPs and 45s and beer. Yes, it doubles as a tap room. Which means I can grab a pint of ale and dig. This time I found someone’s disco collection had been discarded into the bargain bins so picked up 12 inch 45s by Sylvester, Anita Ward and The Village People alongside LPs by the VP and EWF. They also had received a punk collection - which means if you want a copy of Strength Through Oi! there’s a copy here. I wonder if the punk records came from the same owner as the disco stuff? Doubtful but stranger things have happened.

There’s also, every summer, Smugglers Festival - a weekend long music festival that largely focuses on local Kent musicians and, while I’ve not attended, apparently a very enjoyable gathering. And did I mention there are lots of pubs? Quite a few of these put on live music - last night Mike and I caught a duo singing 90s hits in one and a bloke doing soft rock standards in another. And a DJ spinning disco bangers. The likes of Errol Linton, Geno Washington, old punk bands and such all play ticketed gigs here.

This afternoon we went to see Dealtown play Sheppy. Dealtown are the local football team and they play in the Isthmian League (essentially, a semi-pro Kentish league). The game was played in front of a small crowd (maybe a couple of hundred supporters) under driving rain. Both sides played with verve and commitment and Dealtown won 3-1. This is the first football match I’ve attended this century and easily superior to the two Premier League games I went to last century. Then, in the evening, we went to The Lighthouse to see The Remains Of Johnny Cash. Yes, a JC tribute band who very capably played the Man In Black’s greatest hits. Then on to a pub to watch the Fury-Usyk fight (David beat Goliath again).

The beach huts show their support for Usyk and Ukraine.

Deal’s shingle beach is unique, with rare plants growing amongst the stones. Not that today was one for spending much time on the beach - howling winds and lashing rain limited our sojourns. But even when the climate is fierce Deal’s appeal lingers - the elemental forces whipping across the Channel possess a raw intensity that is never experienced in London.

Speaking of the sea, Deal’s appropriately home to several fish and chip shops that both locals and visitors claim are amongst the best in the UK - which one is exactly the “best” is something often debated. Come down for a long weekend and sample them all. Plenty of decent pubs - The Ship, The Berry and The Tap House all have good ale and a welcoming atmosphere - ensure Deal’s a good place to relax in, no matter how foul the weather.

I realise most people only want to visit the seaside when the sun is shining, but I enjoy being blasted on the coast, odd as that may seem. Especially if there’s a good pub, decent record shop and tasty f&s vendor. Cheers to Deal!

Wishing all Yak readers a very happy Xmas and the best for 2025!